Tour of the First Manassas Battlefield
The Battlefield Equestrian Society
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Tour of the First Manassas BattlefieldThe Battlefield Equestrian Society |
Last update |
A Trail Ride Through History
Welcome ... Today you will be riding over the eastern half of the Park, which was the area predominantly involved with the First Battle of Manassas (or First Bull Run as the Union forces called the battle).
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Point A is at the horse trailer parking area at Young's Branch, also known as the winery. Face the woods with Route 29 to your back, and proceed up the trail to your left. Turn right at the first trail intersection; ride down the hill through the pines, cross the stream and the road, and follow the trail up the hill to the gravel road, which is Point B. Turn left.
Point B: As you begin to ride along the gravel road, look to your right, to the top of the hayfield. You will see a stand of trees. This was the location of the Van Pelt House. Near this location, the Confederate forces have located one of four signal stations, being used for the first time during this battle, which employs a "wigwag" method of flag signaling Dr. Albert J. Myer and first used in combat at First Manassas by a young signal officer, Lt. E. P. Alexander. Both Confederate and Federal forces are "green" and, like a green horse, are hard to control and discipline. A young signal captain writes that the men he has to man this station are "so stupid that I have to knock them down & jump on them & stomp & pound them before I can get an idea into their heads." The Union forces are not much better, openly jeering their officers and questioning every order. The speed of the march from Fairfax to Centreville (on the 18th) was extraordinarily slow since many of the men were off blackberry picking, and others refused to get their feet wet while crossing streams. Please, stay on the bridle trails... Point C: You are now where the bridle trail intersects a hiking trail just before the gravel road leaves the open field. It is 6 a.m. on the 21st of July, 1861. To the east of the Stone Bridge, the Union forces have opened fire with an artillery bombardment. This Federal attack at the Stone Bridge is a diversion, while the main body of Union troops attempts to flank the Confederate defenses by marching along farm roads to a ford across Bull Run approximately two miles northwest of here near the Sudley Church. Meanwhile, Colonel William Tecumseh Sherman (he will be remembered for his march through Georgia) has found a another ford across Bull Run conveniently located near the Van Pelt house. The location of this crossing (known as Farm Ford) was betrayed by two cocky Rebel horsemen (one of whom was Major Chatham Roberdeau Wheat commanding "Wheat's Tigers") who foolishly splashed across Bull Run to challenge the Federals, then boisterously galloping back to their own lines. Look east along this treeline and follow the old road with your eyes toward this ford. Later today, Sherman will march his brigade across Farm Ford and along this road to threaten the Confederates at Matthews Hill. Point D: You are at the four way bridle trail intersection with the "long loop" Cornell Trail. It is now 9:30 a.m. The crossing at Sudley Ford (approximately one mile to the north) by Union forces has begun three hours later than planned due to a "wrong turn."
Confederate Colonel Barnard Bee's and Francis Bartow's brigades are ordered to support Nathan Evans, and the Hampton Legion which has just arrived by rail at the Manassas Junction is also ordered to the left. Thomas Jackson's brigade is dispatched to reinforce the Confederate left along Bull Run. |
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Point E: At this location, you will cross a walking trail. The time is around 10 a.m. The Union forces coming down Sudley Road are engaged by Colonel Evan's forces, who are positioned between the Warrenton Pike and the Matthews House. Fighting with infantry and artillery, each side exchanges fire with constant charge, counter charge, barrage, and counter barrage. Around 11 a.m., Bee's forces arrive to give Colonel Evans' forces much needed support. Bartow takes up positions on the same hill (near the Stovall marker). With their arrival, Rebel forces now number around 4,500 men, while Union forces in the area number closer to 9,000. When the Union forces finally began to move forward en masse, the Rebels are forced off of Matthews Hill to positions on Henry Hill. Meanwhile, Colonel Sherman is finally given authority to cross Bull Run at Farm Ford and join the battle. The time is around noon.
Point F: You are riding down an open field towards Youngs Branch. The time is now around 12:30 p.m. Each volunteer regiment has their own unique design and color of uniforms. The problem of "identification" plagued many of the initial conflicts and the First Battle of Manassas is no exception. The 69th New York under Sherman has two companies in gray uniforms, as did the 2nd Wisconsin Regiment. They are now in the woods to your left near Young's Branch. Meantime, the 4th Alabama is falling back down the slope of this hill towards Young's Branch. Since the 4th is expecting reinforcements and the uniforms are gray, they cheerfully assume the New Yorkers are "friendlies." With many different kinds of uniforms on the field, this mistake is to be repeated numerous times this day. The 4th falls in line behind the 69th when the Union forces open "a murderous fire upon [their] ranks." Now look to your right past the Stone House to Henry Hill on the other side of the Warrenton Turnpike. This is the site of the decisive part of the battle.
Point G: You have crossed Youngs Branch and there is a small field at the top of a hill. It is now around 1 p.m. Rebel forces were driven off of Matthews Hill by overwhelming numbers of Union troops, and have fallen back to Henry Hill. Many of Bee's, Evans', and Bartow's forces are gathering behind the Robinson House. Look across the Warrenton Turnpike at the remains of the Robinson House (destroyed by arson in 1993). The Rebels are having difficulty regrouping, many are without their officers who were killed or wounded on Matthews Hill. Wade Meanwhile, Jackson (acting on his own initiative) has deployed his brigade in the edge of the woods behind the crest of Henry Hill in a position to block the Union advance down Sudley Road. Point H: You have crossed US Route 29. Follow the trail bearing right and over the hill to the field behind the Park's Visitor Center.
It is now about 2:00 p.m. McDowell orders his artillery onto Henry Hill, and the fighting is renewed in earnest. This is when a legend is born! Bee, using Jackson as a rallying point, calls out, "There stands Jackson like a stone wall." Consequently, "Stonewall" Jackson will become a part of history. Beauregard takes tactical command of Henry Hill while Johnston returns to the Confederate headquarters at Portici and assumes responsibility for directing reinforcements to the battleground. Look up the hill [toward the Visitor Center], and from horseback you can see a cannon. Union Artillery Captain Charles Griffin has positioned two cannon there and could wreck havoc on Jackson's defensive line from that position. The Virginia 33rd Infantry Regiment (mistaken for Federal support troops) captures the two cannon before their firepower is effective. Though the guns change hands four more times in the confused fighting, many historians consider their initial capture the turning point of the battle. Additional units of Johnston's army join the battle, along with selected elements of Beauregard's command who had previously been assigned to guard fords along Bull Run. Meanwhile, McDowell continues to send his forces piecemeal, one regiment at a time, up Henry Hill in a strategy which eventually costs him this battle. The battle for Henry Hill has now raged for more than two hours. |
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Point I: You will come to a wooden bridge and cross Holkums Branch. The surgeons of Jackson's 1st Virginia Brigade are treating the wounded in a field hospital established along Holkums Branch. General Jackson rides in for treatment, his handkerchief wrapped around his elevated hand. The wound is a minor one to his finger.
Remember to stay on the bridle trails! Point J: Strayer College is on your right. The farm to your left is Portici. The signs on the hill stand near the site of Johnston's Headquarters during this battle and as a field hospital after the battle. Henry Hill could be seen from the top floor of the house that stood on this site. Turn left on the access road.
Point K: You will come to the second driveway on your left on the access road, parallel to US Route 66. It is now around 4 p.m. The battle for Henry Hill still rages after hours of intense fighting. Stragglers and discouraged men have been leaving the battle and moving back towards Manassas and Sudley Ford. Reinforcements coming from Manassas Junction find the road jammed with stragglers, the dust so thick at times that "it was impossible to see for more than a few feet." Many coming forward fall out due to heat exhaustion. One man on horseback moving in the direction of the battle is Point L: You have returned to the Park's trail by passing through the wooden squeeze on your left. After you pass a small pond to your left, look to your right. Can you still see the rifle pits dug by the 19th Virginia Regiment on the eve of the battle to defend Bull Run? Point M: You have crossed Youngs Branch and turned left to return to Rock Road, an unpaved farm road in 1861. It is nearly 4:30 p.m. on the 21st. The Union forces are now in full retreat. They are streaming across Bull Run by Sudley Ford, the Farm Ford that Sherman crossed earlier in the day, and by the Stone Bridge. Union troops who occupied the ground around Stone Bridge cleared away obstructions before joining the retreat. "As we emerged from the woods, one glance told the tale of defeat and a confused, disorderly, and disgraceful retreat. The roads were filled with wagons, artillery, retreating cavalry and infantry in a confused mass, each seemingly bent on looking out for number one." Victory belongs to the Confederate troops. Many of these same men, both Northern and Southern, would return to the plain of Manassas in just 13 months, to march again through these woods and fields bordering the sleepy stream known as Bull Run. As seasoned veterans, they would be members of much larger armies and here they would once again engage each other in another desperate and even more costly battle. At the end of your ride from Point M, continue on the gravel road, cross Route 29, turn left in the hayfield, and return to Point B, reversing the above directions to return to "the Winery." The information and quotes were abridged from "The Battle of Bull Run" by W.C. Davis, and the "First Battle of Manassas" by John Hennessy. The Battlefield Equestrian Society thanks Nola "George" Jurich, Susan Greene, and Cathie Eitelburg, for compiling, designing and coordinating, and Max Cleven for his help on the map on the original pamphlet this page was created from. Appreciation also goes to the staff of the Manassas National Battlefield Park for their support of this project. A special thanks to Edwin Bearss (NPS Chief Historian Emeritus) for his review of this text, and for his many valued comments. Copies of the pamphlet can be obtained at the Park Visitor Center |
It is afternoon now, and a lull has settled over the battle that will be credited to McDowell's indecisiveness. Rebel forces are in confusion with many regiments cut to pieces. Some of the men are beginning to flee to the rear. The few officers left are trying to rally and regroup the remaining men. Johnston and Beauregard arrive at Henry Hill, realize this will be the site of the battle, and help rally the stragglers around Jackson's position.
